Best bars in Hongdae

The heart of Sangsu-ri is its eccentric, warm-hearted owner, a graying artistic soul with a passion for whisky and a penchant for chess. He takes his drinks seriously, spending three months biking through Scotland in search of top-notch whiskies. Back in Seoul, he sometimes hosts informal chess tournaments, as well as the occasional jazz concert (“whenever they drop by and feel like it”). The half-basement room is dark and a little cave-like, scattered with memorabilia, lit by candles and Christmas lights. Order a drink from the menu (handwritten ink on cardboard), preferably a whisky (there are many), and settle in (it’s affordable).

Banana scented makgeolli?  Shindong Makgeolli was different from any other makgeolli I’ve had before, it had a hint of bananas in it. The restaurant gets its alcohol from Shindong Brewery, a small brewery in the Chilgok County of North Gyeongsang Province that the owner stumbled upon. In this timeworn brewery, one master brewer makes the alcohol by himself, deciding on the length of fermentation and the amount of water to infuse by relying on his years of experience. That’s why you may feel a slight difference in the taste of the makgeolli every time you go. The menu is updated daily with seasonal Gyeongsang Province-style dishes. The jeon (Korean-style pancakes) is made from fresh ingredients and the pork, which is brought over from Gyeongsang Province, are bothgreat choices.

It's not just the name. This interesting bar is indeed a union of 3 different but equally unique bars: Agami which offers well aged sashimi, a pojangmacha style pub Yudeokhwa and bar Mindeulle (Dandelion). As collective as the bar itself is, Turtle Union is usually filled with patrons who came in as a group. But there are great hidden spots for solo drinking here: the cozy corner seats at each of the bars. Start with some cocktail from Mindeaulle, accompany it with some assorted sashimi from Agami, and if you feel hungry, fill your stomach with the thinly sliced brisket salad from Yudeokhwa. As you go through each bar’s menu, you'll notice that the noise at this place serves an interestingly soothing element for your solo drinking session. Solo drinking tip: the moment you step into this place, know that you've already got 3 buddies by your side.

If you’re looking for a wine bar with a nice, homey atmosphere for a romantic dinner, Le Mere is the perfect candidate. Located in Mangwon-dong, this new bistro is already gaining popularity among hip couples, with its modern and chic interior: dim glow of lights, dark grey interior, plants hanging on the wall, flower decorations. The most important part: you can taste about 30 different wines, including natural wines (made without chemical and minimum technological intervention) selected by the owner, who has won the 2015 Korea Sommelier of The Year awarded by the world's best master sommeliers. Among the selections, we recommend the La Cuisine de ma Mere, a biodynamic wine made from 100% Cabernet Franc in Loire region priced at 60,000 won.

Combining modern aesthetic with a German countryside feeling, you’ll first notice Krämerlee on summer nights by the jovial drinkers seated outside. As indicated by their German name, the bar offers a simple menu of six craft beers and four food dishes. Although the classic Weissbier is a local favorite, manager and German native Christian recommends the Helene, which has undertones of the pear juice from which it’s made. Popular dishes include Christian’s favorite flammkuchen which he describes as “German pizza” (made predominately with white cheese and onions) and the potato and sausage platter. 

Books and alcohol, it’s a beautiful pairing, really. And Book by Book, located in Sangam-dong near Digital Media City Station, is a perfect place for it. Once you step into this spacious 2 story venue filled with novels, essays, comic books and used books, you’ll get right into the mood for “books and beers.” This bar/bookstore is also known for its guerrilla meetup events, where readers get to meet authors and casually talk, all the while nursing that all important beer in their hands. The cover for the event is only 10,000 won, and it includes one free beer or soft drink. This month, in November, Book by Book will be welcoming the writer Kim Eun-hee (who has written the scripts of the Korean drama Signal). You can find more details on the event and author schedules on its continuously updated blog. Solo drinking tip: Read responsibly. I mean... yeah.

When headed to Man-pyung, look for the neon sign in pink that reads "vinyl music." A music bar opened by two friends of ten years, they've long listened to music together and even DJed together. Their reason for starting the bar? They say it's because they wanted to make noise in what they deemed a quiet and romantic neighborhood. Playing music that ranges from what was hot in the '60s to current Korean indie music, you can also make song requests on hot pink post-its and stick them on the turn-table. Whoever's spinning will do their best to search for it in their 10-year LP collection or play something similar. While their cocktails are average at best, they do come out quickly. It's more the atmosphere you go for—neon laser lights and funky beats. On opening night, they showed a pig head on an iMac screen and stuck a wad of cash on its lips as an "offering" to bless their venue. The place has a sense of humor like that.