Best bars in Hongdae

The heart of Sangsu-ri is its eccentric, warm-hearted owner, a graying artistic soul with a passion for whisky and a penchant for chess. He takes his drinks seriously, spending three months biking through Scotland in search of top-notch whiskies. Back in Seoul, he sometimes hosts informal chess tournaments, as well as the occasional jazz concert (“whenever they drop by and feel like it”). The half-basement room is dark and a little cave-like, scattered with memorabilia, lit by candles and Christmas lights. Order a drink from the menu (handwritten ink on cardboard), preferably a whisky (there are many), and settle in (it’s affordable).

There is no question about the pairing of well-aged whisky and quality chocolate—this doesn’t only apply to wine. Suprisingly located in the midst of the raucous Hongdae university district (more specifically, the notorious alleyway near hookup hotspot Between Night n Music), d.still is staffed with skilled (and attractive) bartenders to boot. The menu exhibits their attention to detail, and paired with their quality cocktails sets the mood for fine dining. Miyeok seaweed in the winter, dureup shoots in the spring—d.still utilizes seasonal ingredients paired with the perfect cocktail. Audible treats include the likes of Keith Jarrett and Charlie Haden.

Combining modern aesthetic with a German countryside feeling, you’ll first notice Krämerlee on summer nights by the jovial drinkers seated outside. As indicated by their German name, the bar offers a simple menu of six craft beers and four food dishes. Although the classic Weissbier is a local favorite, manager and German native Christian recommends the Helene, which has undertones of the pear juice from which it’s made. Popular dishes include Christian’s favorite flammkuchen which he describes as “German pizza” (made predominately with white cheese and onions) and the potato and sausage platter. 

If the best of Hongdae could be encompassed in one bar, it would look a lot like Bar Da. Accessible by one of Hongdae’s backstreets; a table on the rooftop requires a climb up some questionable stairs. Cheap beers and cocktails are served with dried anchovies here where musicians and artists flock before or after shows. Their conversations are well offset with the dim lighting hanging from the low ceilings and the postcards and drawings on the walls. Bar Da is a play on the Korean word for ocean and with its blue overtones, the bar’s breezy feel suits both the large crowds and intimate couples that frequent the place.

Jam sessions among musicians don’t happen only in New York City. It can also be easily seen at Le Salon du Lapin, located in Hapjeong. Although it’s not a live club, you’ll see random performances by musicians who come to just hang out with the owner. Performance genres vary between blues, jazz and rock. There are a variety of drinks, including whiskey, cocktails, beer at relatively affordable prices while the bar also offers non-alcoholic cocktails and coffee for those who are not drinkers.

Craft One… Located in Yeonnam-dong, this bar opened last June combining good craft beer with a local flavors. Made by locals, they exemplify the next stage in Korea’s beer evolution. The vibe… While the bar feels young and vibrant, it’s quite devoid of decoration or daintiness. It’s not Itaewon and the crowd here has considerably many more Koreans, and more males than females. Trek out here for the Mingle (the beer), but not necessarily to mingle.   

While you sip one of their “Zombie shots,” all of the lights go out all of the sudden and a group of zombies appear out of nowhere at a nerve wrecking sound of siren. They grab you, force you a long eye contact, dance to a Big Bang song then pour you a shot while you’re probably shivering with fear. Who doesn’t want that, right? While I consider there’s enough in my life that makes me fearful (which comes for free), if you enjoy horror and don’t mind being grabbed by creepy looking zombies, Noneun Zombie might be an alright place to visit, perhaps once. As the zombies don’t hang around in the bar, you need to sit at a table for a while—they’ll come out when you least expect it. While one downside is the fact that you need to order food with your drinks, the drinks here are pretty cheap, and their Bloody Zombie Chicken is actually not bad as fried chicken. All in all, and perhaps as expected, it’s a place that’s definitely for the gimmicks rather than a quality menu. Accordingly, you’ll go through a thorough I.D. check when you enter, on a level that’s unusual in Seoul. There is usually a pretty long line outside the bar around midnight, so if you want to avoid waiting in line you might want to visit before 10pm or after 1am. Would I go back? I'll just say that I had to get many more drinks (at a different bar) afterwards to learn to laugh again.