Pyeongraeok

Mention Pyeongraeok to any long-time Seoul resident, and you’ll get a flash of recognition and then probably hear the words “Their chogyetang is famous.” Open since 1950, the now-remodeled Pyeongraeok is a two-story affair in the old downtown area. Its signature dish, chogyetang, is a cold noodle bowl with generous portions of stewed chicken, cabbage, cucumber and sweet, crunchy pear. The broth base is made with beef, and the addition of dongchimi (radish water kimchi) broth gives it a briny, slightly sour kick. There’s a touch of mustard fire as well (there are seasonings on your table if you want yours spicier). While people tend to crave these refreshing noodles most in the heat of summer, Pyeongraeok’s chogyetang is popular year-round. But let us warn you: It’s huge. The minimum order is two servings, which comes out in a bowl big enough for three. It also comes with a side of extra chicken, dressed in a spicy red chili paste-based sauce. As is the tradition in Korea, the best cut of chicken is the flavorful, tender dark meat, which you’ll find plenty of here. Try to bring a group so you can also try the mandu and mung bean pancakes. Perhaps the best part of experience, however, is the yuksu (beef broth) served as a drink—servers come around carrying giant kettles of this warming brew and you’ll want to top up when they do.