Midsummer Explained: The Foods, The Flower Crowns, The Frog Dance

The sun’s highest position in the sky has probably been celebrated for far longer than records show, and in folklore, Midsummer night has been associated with magical powers, supernatural beings and the transition from spring into summer. But the first documented Midsummer celebrations in Sweden date back to the sixteenth century, when the church had linked the tradition to the birthday of Saint John the Baptist. Today, though, the celebration is far from religious, and is mostly about throwing yourself into summer’s biggest party on an evening and night when the sun barely sets.

Every celebration has its own unique set-up, but there is a common thread running through the classic Midsummer Eve. In many places, the public are invited to help gather flowers and decorate the pole with greenery, a job done either that same morning or the evening before. It is also usually in the morning that people weave their own flower crowns to wear in their hair. Then, for many, comes a lunch of traditional buffet food, known as a smörgåsbord. And once lunch is done, the festivities tend to get going properly. It is not unusual for a procession of folk musicians to lead the way through the village towards the celebration site, closely followed by those carrying the pole ahead of the big highlight. Around the pole, playful circle dances to classic folk music await, and people often bring their own picnic blankets and fika baskets. After the communal celebration, most people tend to retreat to private barbecues, where the festivities continue into the small hours.

Whether it is Christmas, Easter or Midsummer, you can count on pickled herring and cured salmon when it comes to festive food in Sweden. The traditional Midsummer table has a firm foundation in herring, accompanied by sour cream, chives and, of course, new potatoes. Beyond that, classics such as egg halves with vendace roe, Västerbotten cheese pie, salads and canapés are often laid out.

But no Midsummer is complete without those long-awaited strawberries! We prefer to eat them with vanilla ice cream or lightly whipped cream. The eternal question is whether the Swedish berries will ripen in time, and during Midsummer week the price per hectogram tends to soar.

Midsummer food is also accompanied by the nubbe, the little shot of schnapps, which is both sung about and drunk together. Popular spirits for Midsummer include classic spiced aquavits such as O.P. Andersson, Skåne Akvavit and Aalborg Akvavit, as well as more summery schnapps such as Hallands Fläder. But you do not drink until a snaps song has been sung first! In the best-case scenario, someone has printed a song booklet so you can join in when someone clinks their glass and starts a communal singalong.

Time Out tip: Remember that Systembolaget is closed on both Midsummer Eve and Midsummer Day. So stock up on the little nubbe before then.

Of all the Midsummer traditions, this is surely the oddest: hopping around like ‘frogs’ while singing the chorus line ‘koa-ka-ka’. And yet we do it. Why? We probably need to ask the people who first started dancing around the pole sometime in the nineteenth century. Later, in the 1920s, songbooks with melodies and lyrics linked to holidays began to be published. One of these was ‘Små grodorna’. It seems originally to have been a mocking song that British soldiers sang about the French during the Napoleonic Wars. But over the years it has been modified and become one of the most Swedish things we have.

The idea that the maypole is a fertility symbol is a popular one. Unfortunately, it is wrong. There is no research evidence that the tall pole with its two large flower wreaths is a phallic symbol, even if it is a fun story to tell when someone asks. The Midsummer pole is believed to have come to Sweden from Germany during the Middle Ages, but as for what the design of the pole means, there is no really good answer.

Midsummer night has played a major role in folklore, and in agrarian society it was associated with magical powers. And it is lovely to imagine there is magic in that bright summer night, when the life force of nature feels so strong. The magic people wanted to tap into was mostly about good harvests and health. But there is also a romantic tradition of picking seven kinds of flowers at Midsummer and putting them under your pillow when you go to sleep. That way, you are supposed to dream of your future partner.

Midsummer is a major holiday, which of course means as many people as possible should get the chance to celebrate. That is why most shops close earlier on Midsummer Eve and are completely closed on Midsummer Day. Systembolaget is completely closed on both Midsummer Eve and Midsummer Day. Attractions are often closed on Midsummer Eve itself. And being in a big city at Midsummer is a bit like being in a ghost town, the celebrations happen out in the countryside!

If you do not have folk costume, a summery dress or a shirt and trousers will always work. Then there is only one thing missing: the flower crown on your head. Sweden has the Right of Public Access, which means you have the right to pick wildflowers out in nature as long as they are not protected species. Never pick flowers on someone’s private property. You can make the base of the crown from wire, or buy one ready-made. Then you bind flowers and leaves with myrtle wire and perhaps a silk ribbon.

Time Out tip: You can also buy a ready-made crown from a florist, just make sure you order a few days before Midsummer Eve!