Celebrate Midsummer in Dalarna – everything you need to know

The image of Dalarna as a ‘miniature Sweden’ was created in the 19th century, when city dwellers began making pilgrimages to the countryside to experience traditions that were disappearing from urban life. Dalarna is fairly close to Stockholm, making it easy to get to. But it’s also true that many traditional cultural expressions remain especially strong here. For holidays – not just Midsummer – people often wear folk costume, and Swedish folk music has a strong foothold in the region. The traditional Midsummer celebration with colourful costumes, dancing and folk music is very much alive – it’s celebrated in every single village.

There are as many celebrations as there are schedules. But a typical Midsummer’s Eve begins with preparing the maypole. In many villages, you can join in picking flowers and decorating the pole – either in the morning before it’s raised, or already the evening before. It’s also in the morning that people make their own flower crowns to wear during the day. The main event often kicks off after lunch. Sometimes a procession of musicians walks through the village to the celebration site, and with them comes the maypole to be raised.

The maypole is usually raised in the afternoon, though in some places not until the evening. After that come traditional ring dances and games. When the public celebrations wind down, most people head home for a private barbecue, and maybe on to a barn dance. Be prepared that later in the evening there may be some visitors who’ve had a bit too much from their hip flask.

Time Out tip: In places like Leksand and Torsång, fiddlers, folk dancers and the pole’s wreaths arrive by church boat, followed by a parade to the celebration site.

At the heart of Dalarna lies Lake Siljan, and it’s to the villages around it that many people travel for a colourful and traditional Midsummer celebration. In Leksand, the festivities have grown so large that around 30,000 people from all over the world gather every year at Sammilsdalsgropen to take part in the world’s biggest Midsummer celebration (around the world’s tallest maypole). It gets crowded, so be prepared for things to get a little rowdy in the early hours, when some have had one too many drinks. It’s another side of Midsummer.

That said, every single village in Dalarna has its own celebration, often stretching across a full day.

In Boda Kyrkby outside Rättvik, the schedule starts in the morning with making leafy garlands and flower crowns, and at 18 there’s a procession to the celebration site, followed by dancing and games. Later in the evening, there’s a barn dance.

In Stora Skedvi in southern Dalarna, the day unfolds with flower picking and wreath-making in the morning, and a church concert at midday, before it’s time to raise the pole and celebrate properly.

Time Out tip: Find more celebrations at visitdalarna.se/en/midsummer-celebrations.

Dalarna is the region in Sweden with the greatest number of local folk costumes. Almost every village has its own version, differing in colour and pattern from others. There are often several variations of the same costume, too. For example, women’s dress often includes one apron for everyday wear, one for funerals and one for celebrations. It’s a handmade craft that’s often passed down through generations, and many wear it with pride – not just at Midsummer, but at other holidays too.

Time Out tip: You can actually rent a costume if you want to sort your outfit for Midsummer. Check with one of Dalarna’s many craft shops such as Atelje Leksandsdräkten, Mora hemslöjd and Rättviks hemslöjd. Stora Tuna Folkdansgille also rents out costumes. Rental usually costs between 1,000 and 2,000 kronor.

Since Dalarna is very popular at Midsummer, it’s recommended to book accommodation several months in advance. There are also hotels offering Midsummer packages, including in Tällberg by Lake Siljan, where several cosy hotels host their own celebrations with a full day of traditions. Naturally, both maypole raising and Midsummer food are included.

Time Out tip: In Grövelsjön in northern Dalarna, you can book a Midsummer package at the Swedish Tourist Association’s mountain station, securing both a traditional celebration and a midnight hike in the mountains with like-minded people.

Alongside classic Swedish festive foods like herring, gravad salmon, fresh strawberries and potatoes, it’s not uncommon to find Gustafskorv (juniper-smoked horse sausage) and local crispbread – for example from Stora Skedvi – on Midsummer tables in Dalarna.

If you don’t want to cook yourself, some places worth checking out include Bruntegården in Rättvik, which serves a herring and salmon buffet, Dala-Floda Värdshus, which focuses on slow food and is known for its beautiful garden, and Green Hotel in Tällberg, offering Dalarna romance at its finest. Here you can stay in traditional timber storehouses on the hotel grounds, with stunning views over Lake Siljan.

Time Out tip: For fresh crispbread straight from the oven, visit Skedvi Bröd in Stora Skedvi. You’ll also find a well-stocked food hall here with local delicacies such as meat and cheeses.

The celebration itself, with games and dancing around the pole, is perfect for little ones, and there’s often extra entertainment for younger visitors too. At Lilltorpet in Falun, for example, there’s both a magician and bouncy castles, and in Säterdalen the festivities are topped off with a funfair. Leksand Resort offers an accommodation package that includes not just Midsummer celebrations, but also children’s entertainment, a mini disco and half-price entry to Leksand Sommarland.

Absolutely. In Dalarna, Midsummer is so big it doesn’t fit into a single date. Some villages raise the pole the day before or after Midsummer’s Eve. There’s also a type of Midsummer celebrated a bit later, in July, known as ‘Komidsommar’. This dates back to when people returned from the summer pastures with their cows. When everyone was back in the village, it was time to celebrate. The biggest event in Dalarna is ‘Kofesten’ in Dala-Floda, held on the second weekend of July. But celebrations run throughout the week leading up to it, with music, markets and plenty of activities. It has more of a festival feel than a traditional Midsummer.

June weather in Dalarna can offer everything from glorious summer heat to just a few degrees above zero and rain. At the same time, there’s an unwritten rule that you should sit outside to eat on Midsummer, as long as it’s not pouring. On a changeable day, it becomes something of a national sport to carry the table in and out depending on the weather. Cancelling a Midsummer celebration because of rain simply isn’t an option.

So check the forecast and come prepared with a jumper and a rain poncho if needed. Because you’ll be outside!