If you’ve ever made the trip to Astoria for Thai food worth crossing a borough for, you already know Kam Rai Thai. Now it’s come to Union Square, bringing bold, regional Thai cooking to Time Out Market. Chef Dhanapol “Oak” Marprasert was born in Washington and raised in Bangkok, where he fell in love with Thai cuisine watching his mother cook. That origin story is easy to taste in the food.
Marprasert runs the business with his partner in life and work, Jiraporn “Jina” Tisopa, who leads front-of-house with warmth and hospitality. Together they’ve built a dedicated following at Kam Rai Thai in Astoria and, more recently, at Samsaen in Hudson Yards. The Union Square menu draws on dishes from regions across Thailand.
Start with the crispy Thai larb wings, a good opener to share while you decide what comes next. Then it gets difficult, because the khao soi arrives with confit chicken in a rich coconut curry, the crispy Hat Yai fried chicken comes with sticky rice, and the fan-favorite pad see ew is wok-charred to perfection. Each one makes a case for itself.
This is a counter for people who want flavor first, with variety to spare. Order a few dishes, pass them around the communal table, and see how long the debate over the best one lasts. Chances are you’ll end up coming back to settle it.