Most temples and shrines in Kamakura close between 4pm and 5pm, meaning trains towards Tokyo are usually crowded until 6pm as most visitors head home. Our tip: extend your trip with an evening visit to a local bar and wait until rush hour is over. Wine bar Tres is the best place to spend a few hours, run by a husband and wife duo who both are certified sommeliers.
Besides white, red and rosé wine, you’ll also find orange wine, which gets its distinctive colour by fermenting white wine grapes with the peel still on. Your glass of wine will go well with some cheese from a local dairy in Chiba, or homemade boiled gyoza filled with lotus root.