Tsuruko

Hidden along Michikusa Yokocho, the 'gateway to Kagurazaka' right by Iidabashi Station, is this tiny counter-only izakaya with seven seats that look like they could crumble under the weight of a burly foreigner at any time. The place is still worth seeking out, if only for the excellent Kanto-style oden, served at a mere ¥80 per piece and available on a self-service basis, which allows you to pick out oden and get beer from the fridge whenever you feel like it. The staff only come into play if you order something off the standard menu, which lists unsurprising but very decent izakaya fare from deep-fried and grilled fish to warm sake. You might have to squeeze to fit in among the regulars, but do try it out – Tsuruko is one of the area's rare spots for truly cheap eats.