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Shimokitazawa's high temple of craft beer is actually two shops: Ushitora One is a sit-down affair (reminiscent of Ryogoku's Popeye) with a food menu that stretches from sauerkraut to shepherd's pie, while Ushitora Two is a cozy standing bar that serves up kushiage and oden alongside the drinks. Between them, they've got 35 beers on tap, almost all of them from Japanese breweries and some of them practically impossible to find elsewhere. Both bars are completely non-smoking.