Teikoku-yu

Its tiled roof and imposing entrance immediately distinguish this classic north Tokyo bathhouse from your average neighbourhood sento. In business since 1916, Teikoku-yu boasts one of the most beautiful buildings of any traditional bathhouse in the capital. The handsome 1952 structure’s high ceiling, tiny gardens with koi carp, tile art featuring the same colourful fish, and unique Mt Fuji mural (complete with a rabbit riding a carrot, for some reason) are all worth a closer look.

The last of said highlights was painted by the late Toshimitsu Hayakawa, a renowned master of sento murals whose work can only be viewed at a handful of Tokyo bathhouses these days. Teikoku-yu’s staff go to great lengths to preserve this quirky masterpiece, making sure its surface isn’t put under too much stress.

As for the baths, expect high temperatures across the board. First-timers will want to start in the smallest and most gently heated tub, which often has a bag of minerals or herbs floating around in it for extra relaxing effect. The two larger baths are usually set to well over 40 degrees, so soak with caution; we could barely manage a momentary dip in the middle one, and didn’t even entertain the hottest tub.

While far from the most comfortable sento in Tokyo, Teikoku-yu deserves a visit for the throwback factor. After your soak, take the opportunity to linger on the engawa veranda, sipping something cold and admiring the garden’s unwieldy greenery.