It’s been tough love for Japanese whisky fans over the past year. In 2019, some of the most prized whiskies that come out of the country were discontinued: Kirin Fuji-Sanroku, Suntory Hakushu and Hibiki, as well as Nikka’s Nikka 12, Coffey Grain and Malt whiskies. Now comes the announcement that we have to also bid adieu to Nikka’s age-statement Taketsuru Pure Malt whiskies.
By the end of March this year, Nikka will cease to produce Taketsuru 17-, 21- and 25-year expressions due to the depleted stock caused by an unprecedented demand. When Japanese whisky was being made several decades ago, it was barely known outside the country. It wasn’t until 2001 when Whisky Magazine announced Nikka’s 10-Year Yoichi as its ‘Best of the Best’ blend that Japanese whisky was catapulted to worldwide stardom. Since then, the world’s growing thirst has been drying up stocks of popular Japanese releases.
The Taketsuru series is one of the signature lines by Nikka, essentially a blend of malt whiskies produced at its Yoichi and Miyagikyo distilleries. The decorated 17-, 21- and 25-year expressions have all won accolades at the World Whisky Awards and International Spirits Challenge. World-renowned British whisky critic Jim Murray was quoted as saying that ‘the strength of the [Taketsuru 17-Year] whisky lies in the way the subtle aroma of peat builds up over time’.
Taketsuru is the eponymous label of Nikka’s founder, Masataka Taketsuru, who is regarded as one of the founding fathers of Japanese whisky. Born into a sake-brewing family, Masataka left Japan for Scotch whisky’s homeland in 1918 to build on his knowledge of alcohol production. He studied chemistry in Glasgow and undertook several apprenticeships at Scotch distilleries. In 1934, Masataka established his first whisky brewery in a remote, snowy area of Yoichi in Hokkaido. In 1969, he opened his second distillery in Miyagikyo, Sendai prefecture.
So what’s left on the shelves, you ask? The non-age expression Taketsuru Pure Malt, which ‘features plenty of whisky from the Miyagikyo distillery as well as a percentage of malt matured in sherry cask to give it a rich, spiced nose,’ according to the Nikka website.
In the meantime, Nikka is taking measures to increase production and future proof against similar shortages (and disappointed drinkers). The Miyagikyo distillery will be expanded by 2021 as Nikka has acquired more casks to age whisky; this will help boost production by 40 percent. The length of the distilling period will also be increased.
If you’re in Tokyo and looking to try the Taketsuru – or Japanese whisky in general – visit one of our favourite whisky bars or liquor stores. If you’re feeling despondent about the state of Japanese whisky, why not take a walk on the clear-spirited side with Japanese craft gin?