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The unagi at this Akasaka oldie is steamed before it is grilled, in the Kanto style, meaning that it's soft and fluffy, though retaining a subtle firmness. Try it with a little sansho pepper first, then with nori and the other seasonings on offer, and lastly as an ochazuke with the dashi poured over it. If the prices look a little steep, we’d recommend popping in at lunchtime, when you can try the hitsumabushi – or even their unaju – at a more affordable cost.