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At this hole-in-the-wall spot – whose name, by the way, translates as 'morning wood' – they serve up such delights as grilled salamander, snake liquor and raw pig testicles. The talkative master will tell you all about the 'product', which is supposed to be great for, uh, stamina. Note that the opening hours are relatively subjective – go after 3pm or so and you'll usually be safe though.