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Bird Land was one of the first places to offer upmarket yakitori, served with imported beers and fine wines. Grill master Toshihiro Wada uses top-quality, free-range bantam chickens that are so tasty you can enjoy their meat raw as sashimi. Start off with the chicken-liver pate and don’t miss the superb sansai-yaki (breast meat grilled with Japanese pepper). It’s a small place – just a few tables and a U-shaped counter – and so popular that reservations are hard to get. But seats usually start freeing up by around 8pm, so it’s always worth trying your luck.