UPDATE: Kaikatei closed in autumn 2015.
Visiting Kaikatei is like stepping back in time to 1930s Shanghai: old beer posters, wooden clocks, dated LPs and odd murals of barbarian foreigners lend an air of wartime mystery. Shrimp in crab sauce is delicately flavoured, and a good match for mildly spicy Peking-style chicken with cashew nuts and rich black-bean sauce.