Da Oggi

A good pizzaiolo is still a rare commodity in Tokyo, and when one of them leaves a popular restaurant, it's practically a cause for mourning amongst the regular clientele. That was certainly the case when Keisuke Ikegami parted company with Shibuya's Pizzeria Al Forno in 2011, but he's since resurfaced with a new place of his own, on the southern edge of Shimokitazawa. There's space for just a few tables at Da Oggi, with counter seating overlooking the open kitchen, where Ikegami cooks his pizzas one at a time, fussing over each to ensure that it comes out just right. You can't fault his attention to detail, but the results are surprisingly inconsistent: while the quattro formaggi we ordered was masterfully executed, our quattro funghi was a sloppy mess in comparison. The affordably priced drinks helped sweeten the deal, but while Da Oggi is definitely a welcome addition to the Shimokita dining scene, it doesn't quite merit a special trip.