An enormous wood-fired oven takes centre stage at this popular Meguro eatery. From its fiery interior emerge note-perfect pizzas (from ¥900): thin, light and crispy bases topped with fresh tomato paste, bubbling mozzarella, a drizzle of quality olive oil and a smattering of basil leaves. It’s tasty stuff, and it comes as no surprise that the chef trained in Naples, the spiritual home of the dish – but Galeone has a few more tricks up its sleeve. The pasta dishes (¥1,500-¥1,900) won’t let you down, but we’re particularly drawn to the charcoal grill, which leaves its distinctively smoky imprint on chicken, duck, pork, venison or, if you’re feeling flush, wagyu.
The latter, cooked medium-rare, seasoned with black pepper and served with rucola, is a seriously flavoursome treat. There’s an impressive wine list with a focus on Italian reds, a standing bar where you can down espressos like a true Italian, and a dessert list featuring tiramisu, gelato and granita. It’s a pleasant place to hang out in, with large windows facing a leafy street, exposed brickwork and friendly staff.