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First built as a flea market in the early postwar years, this collection of alleys on the north side of Kichijoji Station is now best known for its many small but excellent restaurants, which began popping up in the late '90s. You'll also find grocery and clothing stores here, along with specialist shops for goodies like yokan (sweet bean jelly), pork cutlet and taiyaki (fish-shaped pancakes filled with anko bean paste). The bustle is turned up at night, when diners crowd the trendy standing-only bars and miniature eateries. For the complete experience, try spending an entire night bar-hopping without exiting the harmonica-like maze.