Hitosuji

There are only six counter seats in this Honancho hideout, and they’re practically always full. Since opening in February 2025, Hitosuji has wowed discerning slurpers with its additive-free double soup, made from a mixture of chicken, dried sardines and katsuobushi skipjack flakes. Its impressively balanced, rich yet mellow flavour is addictive and will make you want to finish the entire bowl, calories and cholesterol be damned. The thin, straight noodles make the ideal companion to what’s a true tour de force of ramen artistry.

Come hungry, since you’ll want to savour every bite of the Tokujo Chuka Soba set – an all-toppings extravaganza that can even be upgraded to include dim sum on the side. It comes with two kinds of char siu – one a house-smoked loin, the other a sweetish low-temp belly cut – plus extra-thick menma, thinly sliced scallions, a soft-boiled ajitama egg and shrimp and pork wontons for a package that’s sure to satisfy.