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For the best soba in Ryogoku, stroll past the Edo-Tokyo Museum from Ryogoku Station, cross Kiyosumi-dori and look for this wonderfully traditional shop in an alley on your right. The Michelin-starred Hosokawa serves up superb fare at very reasonable prices: the standard Seiro, with its aromatic and firm noodles, goes for only ¥1,050, while the fluffy sobagaki porridge, eaten with thick nori seaweed, can be had for ¥1,350.