Isari Juu Hachiban

Make sure you book ahead for dinner at this popular spot, especially at weekends. A ¥500 cover charge is imposed in the evening to further discourage the hordes, but still they keep coming. The reason? A lively spot with big portions of tasty food that’s just a couple of minutes’ walk from Shibuya's Scramble Crossing. It takes a bit of finding, mind; a dark wooden sign in kanji is fixed to the second floor exterior, and entrance is by an elevator so tiny you’d not force a battery chicken into it. But do slip into a shared table to enjoy the seafood dishes from an extensive menu, also available in English. We skipped the ‘shark gristle with pickled plum paste’ this time in favour of the roasted tuna cheek (¥680), filleted and spread on a long plate, big enough for two to share. Better still was the deep-fried silken tofu (¥400), a huge portion buried under dried bonito shavings. Be warned that smoking here is the norm, and even a cup of oolong tea will set you back ¥350. Lunch sets are better value, nearly all in the ¥600-¥1,000 range. Home-spun, but fun.