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This cramped, multi-level restaurant has become one of Shinbashi's most popular after-work destinations, by doing something that so many of its rivals struggle to achieve: serving decent Italian nosh at affordable prices. Almost everything on Uokin's food menu clocks in at well under ¥1,000, though both the quality and portion sizes would seem to demand rather more than that. The parmesan risotto, made with barley instead of rice, is a winner; ditto the hearty bowls of spaghetti and bagna cauda, though our grilled sailfish (one of that day's specials) is a bit too dry. Bottles of wine start at ¥2,800, including a good selection of Italian varieties, while the by-glass servings are some of the most generous we've seen. The action is spread across multiple floors of table seating – plus a little bit of standing room by the entrance – which the wait staff navigate at a furious clip that's matched only by the speed at which dishes come out of the kitchen. It's all mildly chaotic, and cracking value – which might be why you'll need to book in advance if you want to score a table most nights.
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