Dogenzaka is a hub for nightlife, touristy late-night bites and love hotels. In such a central area with a slightly seedy reputation, the last thing you’d expect is an eatery applying French techniques to Chinese cuisine. And yet, in all its glory, there’s Kamera.
Opened by owner and chef Tsuyoshi Kametani, the restaurant aims to serve a variety of shumai and oolong highballs – a combination you don’t hear every day. There are three main teas to choose from: Taiwan Four Seasons Spring Tea, Phoenix Dancong Tea and Wuyi Rock Tea. Each varies in hue and aroma, with distinct notes that drink as smoothly as water and are worth comparing side by side.
To start, we recommend the dried tofu and spring chrysanthemum namul and the homemade salted kelp cucumber. Chef Kametani prides himself on not using any artificial seasonings, instead relying on French techniques to bring out the natural flavours of ingredients – and these appetizers speak for themselves. Keep that in mind as you bite into the summer roll, packed with chicken, carrots, shiso, ginger, green onion, and thinly sliced orange for brightness. Dip it into their tangy sesame sauce, and you won’t see summer rolls the same way again.
When it comes to dim sum, start with the Yamagata pork shumai, topped with a semi-dried tomato and a jam-like layer underneath that’s pure concentrated umami. The aged lamb and black rice dumpling marries the richness of lamb with the chewiness of black rice, while the steamed shrimp shumai overflows with juice and comes topped with spicy coriander, giving the dish an earthy edge and a tingling spice.
Other standouts include the kakuni, a generous block of chopstick-tender pork belly braised in a sweet, umami-rich broth perfumed with aromatics like cinnamon and star anise. The dandanmen feels like what would happen if a French chef were asked to make a Bolognese using traditional Chinese ingredients; it’s spicy, nutty and the perfect way to finish your meal.
There’s always an element of the unexpected at Kamera. Ingredients you wouldn’t think to combine somehow make perfect sense. With an expansive menu and affordable prices, this is a sure hit.