Kimihan Gotanda

Found under the Yamanote tracks at Gotanda Station, Kimihan might look a little seedy from the outside, but is actually a well-run, clean and efficient eatery. Operated by the company behind the popular Tetsu tsukemen chain, they serve traditional chuka soba with niboshi (dried sardine) soup – a pleasantly aromatic mixture that isn't overly greasy and packs plenty of punch. The curly noodles are of the medium-thick sort, and strike up a nice balance with the soup. If you're only going once, try the Tokusei Chuka Soba, their flagship dish, and choose from sides like fried rice, gyoza and wonton dumplings. Take-out is available and the shop stays open until the wee hours.