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Found in Machiya, a roughish part of Tokyo's old town, this homey coffee shop stands out with its retro pink decor. Open from 8am to welcome locals craving breakfast, the café and its morning menu draw crowds with reasonable prices; the 'Arrange Toast (¥750) is a thick slab of bread topped with a chunky sauce and various savoury treats, and comes with a cup of coffee or tea. You'll also find kissaten classics like pasta, rice casserole with white sauce, and 'omu-rice' (omelet filled with fried rice) – all unpretentious but tasty. Kewpie, the resident cat, contributes to the relaxing atmosphere.