Rantei

Located on a sleepy residential street not far from the Sumida River, Mukojima's top 'ramen izakaya' is a little tricky to find but rewards intrepid noodle-hunters with back-to-basics chuka soba, available in four flavours: shoyu, shoyu-chashu, shio and shio-chashu. The standard salt option (¥600) is their most popular dish, and for good reason: the slippery noodles and strongly flavoured soup make for an ideal conclusion to a night of boozing and snacking on seafood.