Rodeo & Cafe

These days, a meal in central Shibuya, where the flow of tourists has become too overwhelming to navigate, is a divisive affair. And yet, off one of the busiest streets in Tokyo is a dark horse of an Italian restaurant hiding in plain sight. Slip underneath the shop curtain adorned with horse silhouettes and into Rodeo & Cafe.

The theme – if there is one – is that everything’s matte black, with touches of wood accents and plenty of warm lighting. It creates a den-like atmosphere that’s stylish enough to impress a date without feeling too serious. There’s a one-drink minimum per person, but don’t worry – your beverage comes with complimentary homemade potato chips seasoned with truffle salt, making the wait and anticipation worthwhile.

Since their prized charcoal-grilled meats take the longest to prepare, you’ll want to order them first so they arrive just in time after the appetisers. If it’s still in season, start with the Pacific saury and eggplant with fresh seaweed terrine, or the Shine Muscat grapes with burrata. The rich, buttery cheese paired with the sweet, floral grapes will have you in disbelief.

Definitely order the bread with the Hiroshima oyster and mushroom ajillo, so as not to waste a drop of the garlic olive oil. The grilled vegetable salad is reminiscent of a summer BBQ, with slight chars on zucchini, parsnips, radicchio, watermelon radish and more, all on top of a well-seasoned salad. Our favourite pastas were the gorgonzola sauce, venison ragu and the Rodeo meat pasta.

The anticipated grilled meats arrive with a dollop of pearly mustard and a lemon wedge. While the pork – with its rendered fat – is tender, the wagyu beef redefines the meaning of the word. Despite the charred edges, the medium-rare meat simply dissolves, filling your mouth with a woodsy, smoky aroma. It comes with a special garlic soy sauce to satisfy your yakiniku cravings.

Rodeo & Cafe is best enjoyed with a group, as portions lean small but are rich in flavour. It’d be a shame not to share.