Shibusan Yoshinari

Most restaurants only offer a few choices at lunchtime, but Shibusan Yoshinari's weekday lunch sets are almost infinitely customisable. At this specialist fish restaurant, just a couple of minutes' walk from Shibuya Station, lunching locals can choose from an impressive spread of 30-40 different dishes, divided into categories including sashimi, grilled fish and daily specials. Sadly, you're only allowed to pick two, but at ¥1,100 – including rice, pickles and miso soup – it's still good value. In the evenings, Shibusan-Yoshinari takes on more of an izakaya flavour, serving a range of sake and shochu to complement the seafood. If it's in stock, adventurous gourmands will want to try the honmaguro noten no sashimi, bluefin tuna sashimi cut from the head of the fish: an unusual dish that's hard to come by even in Tokyo.