Shirube

Located in the jumble of Shimokitazawa’s backstreets, this izakaya looks as traditional as they come, but serves up izakaya classics with a twist – think wholesome nikujaga (beef and potato stew) served with garlic bread, and a glorious ‘tofu cheese’ with honey.

If there’s space and you’re not with a large group, try to nab one of the counter seats for a prime view of the chefs in action, plus a whiff of the fragrant pot of oden bubbling away. Wash everything down with a glass of sake (ask for recommendations) or one of the shochu cocktails. Reservations advised on weekends.