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Those new to the fascinating world of offal barbecue, known as horumon in Japanese, are in for a gourmet anatomy lesson at Hatagaya's Maruichi. During an evening at this neighbourhood favourite, you'll learn the ins and outs of rumen, sweetbreads and omasum, all served super-fresh and seasoned simply with salt. Beginners will want to start with the basic assortment plate: it features four parts of beef and one pork element, including melt-in-your-mouth liver, juicy sweetbreads and chewy reed tripe. If you're visiting in autumn, remember to ask for the wild game meats from Hokkaido.