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Hidden out in the residential wilds of Setagaya, a good 15-minute walk from Yoga Station, Ichikawa combines classic edomae (Tokyo-style) sushi with the flavours of Kyoto's rich kaiseki tradition. Tuna is the protagonist here, so even the shari rice is flavoured to match the mighty maguro. Rice amounts are kept rather reasonable, so you'll have room to try a wide variety of seafood, all expertly paired with drinks picked out by the multi-talented owner.