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To get find this shrine to gyoza, exit from Sangenjaya Station and head west along Setagaya-dori for about five minutes. On offer are two types of the classic Chinese dumpling: fried or steamed, both going for a mere ¥290 per plate. Don’t like garlic or Chinese chives? No problem, you can order them without. The fried gyoza are on the small side and have thin wrappers. Inside is an extremely simple filling: minced pork, Chinese cabbage and regular cabbage. For all their simplicity, they’re very juicy and have flavour in spades. Order a side of bean sprouts, cabbage or cucumber and your meal will be complete.