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The other branch of Kagurazaka's famed 'udon kaiseki' purveyor Torijaya, this refined restaurant is found along a winding, cobbled street and oozes old-style elegance. Dinner courses start from around ¥5,000, but as is customary in Tokyo, the lunches are far more affordable: we recommend the excellent oyakodon (¥980), a hearty protein punch of a dish combining free range chicken from Shizuoka with fine, antibiotic-free eggs. The nori seaweed hidden underneath the egg and dashi concoction adds a nice savoury touch, while the ryotei (traditional Japanese fine dining) surroundings elevate a midday meal here into the category of everyday luxury.