Munching on super-fresh sushi in a fish market at the crack of dawn is an essential Tokyo eating experience. You could undergo the rite at the famous staple Toyosu together with hundreds of jetlagged newcomers...or flee the hungry hordes to Tsukiji, the wholesale market’s former site, where you’ll find equally luscious seafood served in far less sterile surroundings.
One of our favourite kaisendon (seafood bowls) at Tsukiji’s outer market comes courtesy of Tsukiji Kanno, a historic seafood-over-rice specialist where the seating options range from a couple of makeshift counters facing the bustling Monzeki-dori street to air-conditioned booths bathed in fluorescent light at the back of the slightly antiquated building.
The affable Mrs Kanno’s crew can whip up around 30 different fish and rice combos, among the most notable of which is the ever-popular nakaochi tokudon (¥2,200) built around the day’s freshest lean tuna. The morning nigiri sets, meanwhile, start from around ¥2,000.