Norwegian-style sourdough specialist Vaner bakery is nestled at the back of Uenosakuragi Atari, a small cluster of 100-year-old Japanese houses that have been converted into a collection of shops, restaurants and event spaces.
As you enter through the sliding shoji doors into the compact little bakery, you face a large glass panel with a full-frontal view of the preparation counter, where you can often see owner-baker Tsukasa Miyawaki at work. This open design was inspired by Ille Brød in Oslo, where Tsukasa trained. ‘I like this style because, by keeping it open, we spark curiosity in customers about our breads and the bread-making process itself, which is essential to developing a deeper understanding about sourdough,’ says Tsukasa.
Vaner focuses on just six types of breads and pastries, including the classic sourdough loaf (known for its chewy caramelised crust and spongy, umami-rich, slightly sweet crumb), fragrant cinnamon and cardamom scrolls, and rustic, flaky sourdough croissants. The ingredients used are a mix of local Japanese wheat sourced from Tochigi Prefecture and Norwegian organic heirloom grains, and they are stone-milled in Tottori prefecture.
Visit early if you can, as the loaves draw customers from across Tokyo and tend to sell out.