Vert

Tucked away down a tiny street in Kagurazaka is Vert, a dessert kaiseki counter helmed by chef Toshihiro Tanaka who has devoted his space to pairing Japanese tea with kanmi – or the sweetness of desserts. French technique meets Japanese sensibility here, shaping the 11-course experience matched with nine teas that are just as integral to the whole as the desserts themselves. Each tea is handpicked from some 50 to 60 producers across Japan to complement a specific dish. 

Tanaka’s philosophy is simple: ingredients from nature are already delicious – his role is merely to elevate them, even if only by ten percent. The menu changes monthly to reflect the season’s peak produce. On our recent visit, the spotlight was on citrus sourced from farmers in Wakayama prefecture.

We had the pleasure of tasting one of Tanaka’s signature creations, the Etto Beni – a citrus-forward dessert built around the classic pairing of mikan oranges and green tea. Juicy slices of mikan are accented with jasmine-forward oolong and a juniper-infused sauce, then finished with fragrant tarragon oil and a sprinkle of pepper with a grapefruit-like aroma. Another standout reimagines riz au lait rice pudding. Tanaka’s version features rice simmered in milk to achieve a chewy, mochi-like texture, layered with lemon curd and housemade amazake. Kaffir lime leaves lend a bright citrus fragrance, while a spoonful of caviar adds a surprising savoury, salty pop.

As a finale, guests are ushered to a neighbouring tea room where they finish off the meal with matcha and wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets). Dessert omakase are ¥24,800 per person and reservations are essential.