Yakiniku Kokochi

Shuntetsu Kimura’s family has been doing business in Koenji for three generations, so despite racking up 12 years of meaty experience at the renowned Yakiniku Sansui in Kokubunji, opening a joint of his own just north of the station took some guts (sorry). But Kimura has relished the game since setting up Kokochi in 2023, staying focused on the time-honoured basics of the grill-it-yourself form while building a loyal local following.

He makes a point of adjusting his seasonings and marinades carefully to match each cut and bring out its unique characteristics. Highlights here are the liver, free of any gamey odour and with a light, melt-in-your-mouth texture; the thick-cut skirt steak (harami) seasoned with salt and wasabi; and the ultra-soft kalbi that vanishes the moment it touches your tongue.

First-timers should go for the ¥8,800 omakase, which includes all the aforementioned stars plus a top-notch supporting cast like lightly seasoned house-made namul and kimchi, as well as rice cooked in a traditional donabe clay pot.