Sauna Tokyo
Photo: Sauna Tokyo
Photo: Sauna Tokyo

Tokyo sauna guide: 9 superb spots for sweating it out in the capital

How to get a hang of Japan’s sauna scene, plus our picks of the best steam rooms across greater Tokyo

George Matsuo
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Sweating it out in a sauna can be serious business in Japan. The country’s steam-room scene revolves around totonou – the canonical sauna term that means to be ‘orderly’ or ‘in harmony’. More specifically, it describes the blissful state one reaches after a cycle of sauna, cold plunge and meditation. Serious sauna heads often describe the sensation as euphoric and dreamlike, as if ascending to a new astral plane.

Sound like a bunch of hyperbole? Perhaps, but there’s no denying that as sauna culture has exploded in Japan over the last decade, the country has developed a distinctive and often near-esoteric approach to high-temperature relaxation. Aficionados debate the ideal number of sauna-to-plunge-to-back-again cycles required to truly totonou, and an entire industry of sauna merch-makers hawking everything from hats and mats to custom towels has sprung up to cater to true believers.

Meanwhile, the saunas themselves are more numerous than ever. But despite the growing number of facilities, it’s important to note that no two saunas are the same. Variables such as temperature, heat source, bench design, lighting, cleanliness and size can make or break a spot. In addition, many compete with experiential factors – music, amenities, and the availability of aufguss, where infused water is poured over hot stones and steam is circulated with towels.

To separate the wheat from the chaff, we’ve searched far and wide, from established sauna giants to neighbourhood sentos. Here are nine exceptional locations across greater Tokyo to help you get acquainted with the scene, plus a handful of basic pointers to keep in mind.

SAUNA TIPS

1) Drink plenty of water before a sauna session.

2) Thoroughly wash your hair and body before entering a sauna.

3) After exiting the sauna, rinse off any sweat before going into the cold bath – and don’t dunk your head (only up to your neck).

4) Dry your body before entering a relaxation area or sitting on a chair. And if they offer a pail of water, splash your seat after you’re done.

5) When you’re finished, dry your body thoroughly; you should not be dripping in the changing rooms.

6) If you’re feeling sick at all, stay home. Don’t be the one to spread illness in a shared space.

9 superb saunas

  • Health and beauty
  • Saunas and baths
  • Yoyogi-Uehara

Tattoo-friendly / Men only (ladies’ day once a month)

Boasting a botanical ambiance and thoughtful design, YOQ is the new underdog sauna in Yoyogi-Uehara. Despite being a smaller facility, the experience is as smooth as it gets. The sauna cabin is intentionally dark, creating a pleasant environment where you can focus on the soft glow of the kiuas, or sauna stove.

Through the small window, you have a clear view of the shower stalls and cold plunges, so there’s never an awkward moment of having to queue. It’s here that I picked up my preference for individual cold-plunge tubs, where nobody disturbs your thermal barrier.

The staff emphasises the importance of thoroughly wiping down your body before heading to the reclining chairs. If you go during the daytime, you can bask in the sunlight that pours in through the frosted windows. On your way out, stop by the bar beside the front desk for a cool glass of refreshing Oropo – a drink made by mixing Oronamin C and Pocari Sweat – or choose from a selection of craft gins, whiskies and more.

Whether it’s the extra-refreshing lemon water, the high-quality shampoos or the esoteric ambient music, with each visit to YOQ you’ll find a new detail to appreciate.

  • Health and beauty
  • Saunas and baths
  • Shibuya

Tattoo-friendly / Men and women

All sauna heads in Japan have heard of Sado (‘The Way of Sauna’), the manga and essay series that sparked the sauna boom. Since its publication, author Katsuki Tanaka has poured his energy into building the kind of sauna he once only wrote about.

Located just five minutes from Shibuya Station, Shibuya Saunas is the culmination of Tanaka’s vision: a modern temple of sweat that’s both serious about tradition and playful in execution. Guests can choose from nine distinctive sauna rooms, each designed with a different theme – from the silent, pitch-black ‘Musta’ sauna to the music-infused ‘Sound’ sauna and the serene, tea-inspired ‘Teetä’ room – channeling introspection and experimentation in equal measure.

The facility’s layout is divided between two areas – Woods and Lämpi – which alternate between men and women on different days, ensuring everyone gets the full experience. Shibuya Saunas is also tattoo friendly, a rare and welcome policy in Japan’s public bath scene, making it a magnet for international visitors and Tokyo’s creative crowd alike.

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  • Things to do
  • Adachi

Tattoo-friendly / Men and women

Communal bathhouse Hotta-yu has been a staple in Nishi-Arai for well over 80 years. In 2022, it underwent a renovation that catapulted it into the sauna big leagues. The spacious bath and shower area is adorned with massive tile paintings: cherry blossoms and Mt Fuji on the men’s side, and Utagawa Hiroshige’s Great Hashi of a Thousand Pillars on the women’s side.

In the herbal sauna, a glass orb hangs over the heat source to brew tea leaves or citrus peels, actively steaming aroma throughout the room. The scents change almost daily, so be sure to check the calendar on their Instagram if you have a preference. Outside, you’ll find a cold plunge, rest chairs and an outdoor bath shaded by a large citrus tree. Sit and stare up at the open sky or watch the leaves sway in the breeze as you nod off. 

Hotta-yu is an extraordinary sento that’s worth the trek.

  • Hotels
  • Ueno

No tattoos / Men only

Hokuo is a capsule hotel and sauna that’s been in operation since 1992. The aesthetic is peak bubble-era fever dream: space-age capsules and brutalist architecture, everything a bit worn and bereft of colour. Nevertheless, the place remains one of Tokyo’s sauna meccas. Whether you’re booking a stay or just a sauna session, both require a reservation through the link provided. (The sauna is available without a reservation between 10pm and 10am.)

Check in at the front desk on the sixth floor, then take your time exploring the two saunas, cold bath, indoor bath, and the outdoor bath on the rooftop. Afterwards, change into their provided robe and head down to the relaxation room for a snooze, or grab a bite at the cafeteria.

The food menu is lengthy, offering everything from ramen to tonkatsu – but you’ll hear everyone around you ordering the same thing: their signature curry, which toggles between sweet and spicy, packed with braised beef that practically melts into the sauce.

Hokuo is no glamorous spa, but it’s strangely homey. If you can look past the grime, it’s a fun blast to the past.

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  • Things to do
  • Saitama

Tattoo-friendly (designated cover required) / Men only

Located in the city of Soka in Saitama, Sauna Heaven is the place to go for its exceptional aufguss service. The sauna cabin looks like a human cat tower, full of steps and nooks covered in soft rugs, with even a small secluded seating area equipped with its own kiuas (stove).

Every thirty minutes to an hour, the staff orchestrates an aufguss service that plays out like an olfactory DJ set, using essential oils, fruit peels and even ice. They fan towels to circulate the airflow and send focused blasts of heat to those in attendance. People clap when it’s over, and for good reason.

After my cold plunge, I was sitting in a trance when a staff member came by and fanned me with his towel. This top-notch service is what earned Sauna Heaven its spot on the list; absolutely worth experiencing. One thing to note is the outdoor rest area, which is the only part of the facility that requires a bathing suit (available to rent if you forget one).

  • Things to do
  • Kichijoji

Tattoo-friendly (cover required) / Men only (ladies’ day once a month)

Located beneath the bustling streets of Kichijoji, Monster is a sauna powerhouse. This is one of those places where you need to register through Line, which can be mildly annoying but makes returning incredibly smooth. Once you’ve checked in, slip through the heavy theatre drapes, put your shoes in a plastic bag and choose an open locker. Aside from towels, take a robe or poncho with you, as both the meditation area and the communication area require you to be clothed. Your locker number corresponds to the towel hooks, so keep that in mind.

The sauna cabin is massive, with amphitheatre-style steps that get devilishly hot the higher you climb. Every twenty minutes, they perform what they call a Niagara löyly, where water automatically cascades over the enormous stove. After your cold plunge, throw on your robe and head to the dungeon-like meditation area to unwind on their reclining seats.

Monster is known for hosting an eclectic array of events: jazz saunas, extreme-heat sessions, and days when renowned sauna masters drop in to showcase their unique aufguss styles. Be sure to check their calendar before visiting so you know what you’re signing up for.

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  • Things to do
  • Shinanomachi

Tattoo-friendly / Men and women

This award-winning sauna, crowned No. 1 in the 2024 edition of Saunachelin – Japan’s ‘Michelin guide for saunas’, natch – delivers a peak wellness experience in the heart of Tokyo. Just minutes from Gaienmae and set beside the National Stadium, it's like a green oasis amidst the bustling city.

Inside, guests are welcomed by soothing aromatherapy before entering a beautifully lit bath hall centred under a skylight. The facility encompasses three distinctive saunas: a warm, atmospheric room with an eclipse design; a futuristic high-heat sauna with blue lighting; and a bright, wood-toned ‘Nagomi’ sauna ideal for relaxed conversation and self-löyly.

Two contrasting cold baths – one an ultra-cold, mint-infused deep plunge – provide exhilarating cooldowns. Thoughtfully designed lounges offer infinity chairs, ear muffs and even a free drink bar with lemon water, soft drinks and non-alcoholic beer. Though premium in price (from ¥2,178 for one hour), the experience at Totopa is unlike any traditional sauna visit.

  • Things to do
  • Akasaka

Tattoo-friendly / Men only

Just a minute’s walk from Akasaka Station, Sauna Tokyo is a meticulously crafted paradise for sweat-room lovers. The facility offers five distinct saunas, including a massive 40-person main room, a richly aromatic Kelo-wood self-löyly room and the standout Meditation sauna, an intimate, low-temperature, high-humidity retreat where guests can refresh with a hose rinse while seated.

Unique touches like an ‘Edo-style’ steam bath and overhead cooling showers add to the charm, while three temperature-tiered cold plunges ensure the perfect cooldown for all. The relaxation area is breathtaking: a spacious, Japanese-inspired hall with shoji-like lighting, Adirondack chairs and tatami. For ¥500, guests can enjoy unlimited detox water, Pocari and barley tea, with optional speciality drinks. Sauna Tokyo also does top-notch aufguss, so be sure to catch the performance on your visit.

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  • Things to do
  • Tamachi

Tattoo-friendly / Men only (ladies’ day on the 10th, 20th and 30th of the month)

This 90-year-old Mita bathhouse has been transformed into a modern sento with help from the Ozeki Product Research Institute. The changing rooms feature simple lockers made of Japanese cedar and a soundtrack of traditional folk songs for a calming mood. The main bathing area feels blissful, with wooden carvings, glossy tiles and lush greenery.

On the first floor, a hinoki cypress sauna fits up to 20 people and releases hojicha-scented steam. The old bathtubs remain in their original shapes but have been refreshed with light blue tiles. Alongside warm baths, there are two cold baths set at 16°C and 9°C respectively, plus five private sauna booths for solo relaxation.

Upstairs, a digital projection by a local artist replaces the classic mural. Guests can cool down on tatami with an ice-cold lemon mojito or mocktail. Paradise is men-only most days, but open exclusively to women on the 10th, 20th and 30th each month.

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