I flew over five glaciers for one of the most memorable meals I've had in Alaska

I visit Alaska at least once a year. I’ve had some of the most memorable meals of my life there, including white-tablecloth dinners on the Alaska Railroad, a multi-course tasting menu at Foraker, and expertly prepared sushi at Sakura. My favorite meal, though, was at Taku Glacier Lodge in Juneau. It began with a plane ride.

Taku Glacier Lodge has never been easy to reach. Built in 1923 as a hunting lodge for a frontier doctor named Harry DeVighne, the original cabin could only be reached by a half-day boat trip through the elements. As a modern-day visitor, I had the luxury of arriving by floatplane, soaking in views of winding rivers, dense forests, and bright blue glaciers.

How do I get to Taku Glacier Lodge?

The experience began at Wings Airways on Juneau's historic downtown waterfront. Ribbons of mist floated across the peaks of the Coast Mountains as I walked down the dock to a row of classic turbine-powered de Havilland Otter floatplanes. Within minutes, the city disappeared, replaced by mountains, waterfalls, dense rainforest, and rivers lacing through the wilderness. The planes were configured with a single row of seats on each side, which meant everyone had a window. There wasn't a bad seat on board.

I’ve been flightseeing in Alaska before, and this felt almost like a helicopter ride, floating low enough to soak in Southeast Alaska’s rugged landscapes. Snow-covered peaks rose in every direction while enormous rivers of ice tumbled from the Juneau Icefield. The scenery included five of the region’s defining glaciers: Norris, Hole-in-the-Wall, East Twin, West Twin, and Taku. 

One of Alaska's most scenic landings

Instead of touching down on a runway, our float plane skimmed the Taku River before stopping in front of the lodge. Across the water, the Hole-in-the-Wall Glacier created a postcard-perfect backdrop.

Before we could wander the grounds, staff members offered a quick bear safety briefing. Black bears regularly roam the property, especially when salmon are running, and sightings are common enough that everyone is asked not to carry food while exploring. I love seeing bears, just from a safe distance, so I was grateful for the advice.

At the top of the dock, Adirondack chairs were scattered across a large, grassy lawn and trails wound along the waterfront and through a forest of spruce and hemlock. I took my time heading to the lodge, happy to linger a little longer in the scenery.

Who owns Taku Glacier Lodge?

Taku Glacier Lodge is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Although built by Dr. DeVighne, the property’s most famous owner was Mary Joyce, an adventurous nurse who took it over after the death of her employer, Leigh "Hack" Smith, in 1934. Joyce transformed the lodge into a thriving wilderness retreat and became an Alaska legend in her own right after completing a nearly 1,000-mile dogsled journey from Juneau to Fairbanks in 1935. Her exploits made national headlines, and her photos and memorabilia are scattered throughout the lodge.

Today, the lodge is owned by the Ward family, who have welcomed visitors for an authentic Alaska salmon bake since 1993, while preserving the traditions that made it famous.

The menu

The star of the meal was wild, sustainably caught salmon prepared over a crackling alderwood fire. The feast was served family-style in front of picture windows and a massive stone fireplace, with historic artifacts and artwork decorating the walls and soaring log beams overhead.

The feast included baked beans, coleslaw, flaky rosemary biscuits, Alaska sourdough bread, and decadent ginger cookies, with generous portions, and speaking from experience, there’s plenty to go around for second, or even third helpings.

As we ate, staff members shared stories about the lodge and Mary Joyce’s colorful life as one of Alaska's pioneering women. Over the years, she worked as a bush pilot, military advisor, actor, and, of course, the owner of what would become Taku Glacier Lodge.

The food was delicious, but as is often the case, it was the camaraderie of my fellow guests and setting that elevated the meal into something unforgettable. Afterward, I joined a staff member for a walk to a waterfall, breathing in the scent of the evergreens.  

One last look

Time always throws me off in Alaska. The 3.5-hour excursion was scheduled to run from late afternoon into early evening. Back home, that would mean the light was starting to fade. But in Alaska, the days seem to last forever. Even as we climbed back into the floatplane, the sun was still high enough to illuminate a kingdom of mountains, rivers, and glaciers below. I was grateful for one last chance to peer out the window before the return to Juneau.