Khao Hom Mali, the backbone of Thai Cuisine

Thai kitchens don’t whisper, they roar: garlic sizzles, chilies pound, woks clang. And always in the background, jasmine rice steams quietly in the corner, filling the air with a soft, pandan-like perfume. For Thais, that fragrance means home.

For me, that scent is steeped in nostalgia. As a child, when my head barely reached the countertop, I would watch my mother lift the lid of the rice pot, a cloud of steam rising to veil her face. Later, when the rice cooker gave its telltale ‘pop,’ my role was clear: to fluff the rice quickly, separating each grain before closing the pot again to trap its warmth and perfume. Even now, that small but important duty remains mine.

That daily ritual revolves around what the world knows as jasmine rice. But its true name and official designation is Khao Hom Mali, Thailand’s most celebrated grain. First discovered in the Northeast in 1945, it is protected under Thailand’s Geographical Indication (GI) certification and can only be grown in Thai soil. The most prized fields lie in the Thung Kula Ronghai basin of Isan, where once-barren saline plains have, over generations, been transformed into fertile paddies. Here, the extremes of hot days, cool nights and mineral-rich soil coax out the rice’s signature qualities: a floral aroma, delicate sweetness and a soft, fluffy texture when cooked. Harvested just once a year in late autumn, these grains are recognized globally as the finest fragrant rice in the world.

More than just a staple, Khao Hom Mali is part of Thailand’s cultural fabric. It’s gluten-free, nutrient-rich, and tied to the rhythms of community and the landscape itself. Across Thailand, chefs and home cooks alike showcase Khao Hom Mali in countless ways—pairing it with bold curries, folding it into heritage menus or simply steaming it to perfection as the heart of the meal. Here’s how restaurants across the five regions of Thailand celebrate the grain that defines Thai cuisine.

1. KAEN

Born and raised in Khon Kaen, Chef Paisarn Cheewinsiriwat grew up surrounded by rice fields, a memory that infuses his cooking today. Working directly with small farming communities, he sources Khao Hom Mali from the Thung Kula Ronghai basin, where the saline soil and once-harsh conditions have, paradoxically, become the secret to world-class rice. Farmers often hold the unpolished grain for him and mill it only when he orders, so diners taste rice at its freshest—fluffy, aromatic and glistening with natural moisture. “Isan food usually goes hand in hand with sticky rice,” Chef Paisarn notes, “but there is no rule carved in stone. Jasmine rice can pair beautifully with Isan food as well.”

At KAEN, the rice isn’t just a backdrop for fiery flavors, it plays a starring role, paired with charcoal-grilled meats, house-fermented relishes and seasonal produce. Heritage varieties, like red tubtim rice from Chumphae, also appear on the menu, deepening the connection between memory and place. For Paisarn, the joy of “new rice”—soft, fragrant and pandan-like—still lingers from his childhood, when his nanny would bring the family her fresh harvest.

And for those who can’t make it upcountry, Kaenkrung in Bangkok brings the same spirit with a city twist.

KAEN. Isaan contemporary. Seasonal set menu from B1,990. Khon Kaen. Open daily 11am–2pm, 5–10pm.

2. Blackitch Artisan Kitchen

In Chiang Mai, Chef Phanuphon “Black” Bulsuwan rotates his Khao Hom Mali sources every two weeks so guests can taste how terroir changes fragrance and texture. “Jasmine rice is the soul of Thai cuisine,” he says. “Its floral aroma and soft texture tell the story of our land and our people.”

The menu is an ever-changing exploration of Thai flavours through fermentation, preservation and seasonal ingredients, with rice always anchoring the experience, whether alongside river fish, local greens or modern reinterpretations of heritage dishes. Here, Hom Mali isn’t just steamed to perfection; it’s a canvas for craft and a symbol of connection between farmers, chefs and diners.

Blackitch Artisan Kitchen. Contemporary Thai. Tasting menu from B2,590++ per person. 27 Nimmanhaemin Soi 7, Chiang Mai. Open Wed–Mon 6–10pm.

3. House Number 1712

In Udon Thani’s heritage quarters, this charming family home has been revived as a kitchen where rice sits at the heart of every plate—and every story. House Number 1712 offers diners the choice of four different strains of rice, ranging from classic Khao Hom Mali to lesser-known local varieties, allowing guests to experience the grain not just as a pairing, but as a character in the journey. “At our restaurant, we normally serve both jasmine rice and local varieties. We usually offer about four different strains of rice for our guests to choose from.”

Dishes here embody the soul of Isan: expect delicately grilled river fish, slow-cooked curries and smoky salads like larb all served beside rice that’s fragrant, warm and effortless. The home’s architectural charm—shaded verandas, polished wood floors—only deepens the connection to place, making every meal feel like family hospitality elevated with fine touches.

House Number 1712. Isan contemporary. Set menus from B690. 6/3 Prajak Sillapakom Rd, Udon Thani. Open Tue–Sun 11am–9pm.

4. Rasik Local Kitchen

With just five tables set alongside the open kitchen, Rasik is as intimate as it gets. Diners watch Chef Sala “Waii” Sakdadej move with an easy rhythm and a big smile, turning the space into something closer to a dinner party than a restaurant. At times he’ll step out from behind the counter, raise his glass and toast with guests, blurring the line between host and chef in a way that makes you feel part of his inner circle.

The menu is rooted in hearty Thai comfort food, where local ingredients are treated with finesse but never fussed over. At the heart of it all is rice. Chef Waii insists on Khao Hom Mali from the famed Thung Kula Ronghai basin, choosing the Thai Hua & Sethiwan brand for its fragrance and natural moisture. To achieve what he calls the perfect balance of texture and aroma, he blends it with another jasmine strain, a small act of obsession that shows just how seriously chefs treat rice in Thailand. The result is rice that isn’t just a backdrop, but a steamy centerpiece that elevates everything from layered seafood curries to soulful Northern-style dishes.

Rasik Local Kitchen. Contemporary Thai. Dishes from B290. Chang Khlan, Mueang, Chiang Mai. Open 5–10pm. Closed Tue.

5. The Charm Dining Gallery

In a lovingly restored Sino-Portuguese townhouse in Phuket Old Town, The Charm Dining Gallery balances nostalgia with a refined take on Southern Thai cuisine. Owner and Chef Arnon Phucharoen is adamant that rice deserves the same care as the curries and seafood it accompanies: “If you cook the dishes perfectly but choose the wrong rice, it is a waste. And, it needs to be piping hot,” he says. For him, Khao Hom Mali is the indispensable companion; soft, fragrant and capable of tempering the fire of Southern chilies without ever losing its character.

The kitchen here treats rice with reverence, pairing it with recipes drawn from generations of family cooking. Expect bold Southern signatures—turmeric-stained curries, stir-fries bristling with herbs and seafood fresh from the Andaman—all anchored by rice chosen with the same care as the ingredients themselves. The result is a dining room where every detail feels deliberate, from the historic architecture to the very grain on your plate.

The Charm Dining Gallery. Southern Thai. Set menus from B1,290. 93 Dibuk Road, Talad Nue, Phuket Old Town Phuket. Open 11am–9pm. Closed Wed.

6. Aksorn

Set atop the original Central store on historic Charoenkrung Road, Aksorn is Chef David Thompson’s homage to mid‑century Thai cuisine, a world resurrected from vintage cookbooks and served in cinematic, family-style tasting menus. The restaurant melds nostalgia with prestige, pairing delicate starters like Miang Mhark with heritage-themed mains, all in a setting where the original bookshop facade meets plated memories.

Thompson believes that “Thai food... is like a complex musical chord; it’s got to have a smooth surface but it doesn’t matter what’s happening underneath.” At Aksorn, Khao Hom Mali rice plays like the steady bass note, perhaps understated but essential, tying together the drama of turmeric curries, floral relishes and layered textures into a harmonious dining movement.

Aksorn. Heritage Thai. Set menus from B4,150++. Central: The Original Store, 5F, 1266 Charoenkrung Rd, Bang Rak, Bangkok. Open daily 6–10pm.

7. Samrub Samrub Thai

Tucked off Sala Daeng, Samrub Samrub Thai feels like a personal supper club turned Michelin-starred stage. Chef Prin Polsuk, formerly of Nahm, has transformed regional Thai cuisine into a joyous, unapologetic celebration where rice is more than a side dish; it’s a ritual. Each seasonal set menu includes jasmine rice served in abundance, with staff quick to refill bowls as though at a family table. The long communal counter buzzes with warmth as Lao khao flows, laughter bubbles and forgotten recipes come alive again in a room that feels generous and intimate all at once.

Chef Prin works closely with farmers in Khon Kaen and across Isan, sourcing the freshest new-crop jasmine rice, which is milled to order before reaching his kitchen. The grains arrive with their natural aroma intact—floral with hints of pandan and popcorn—and a soft, slightly springy texture that balances the vibrant flavors of Thai food. “Our food is spicy, salty and sour,” Prin says. “Jasmine rice is the sweet counterpoint that ties it all together.”

Samrub Samrub Thai. Regional Thai. Seasonal set menus from B4,290++. Soi Saladaeng, Silom, Bangkok. Open Tue-Sat 5.30–11pm. Closed Sun-Mon.

8. YoRice Amazake

At YoRice Amazake, rice isn’t plated; it’s poured. By fermenting local varieties of jasmine rice with koji, they create a silky, naturally sweet drink that’s packed with probiotics, B vitamins and antioxidants, making it a bona fide rice-based superfood.

The project was founded by an unlikely trio: Pharadon ‘Opor’ Phonamnuai, Chiang Mai’s legendary saxophonist and owner of the iconic North Gate Jazz Co-Op; Dr. Kongkiat Kespechara, a physician with a passion for wellness; and artist Pramarn Jaroonwanich. Together, they’ve turned rice fermentation into both a craft and a cause, blending creativity, health and social impact in every glass. Think of it as the creamy comfort of rice porridge distilled into a refreshing craft beverage. Whether you try the traditional version or a fruity twist like mulberry or lychee, each sip feels like health in a glass.

Just as important is how they source their grain. YoRice uses broken rice—normally relegated to animal feed—paying farmers 20% above the usual rate and giving new value to overlooked harvests. That same rice has also inspired North Gate Spirit, a small-batch label under the North Gate Distillery brand, proving its versatility from soft drinks to strong pours. The venture itself was born out of a Rice for Life campaign to support refugees along the Thai border during the Covid-19 pandemic, and today, the three partners continue to weave purpose into every bottle, sip and story.

YoRice Amazake. Rice fermentation café. Drinks from B40. Sukasame 8, Chiang Mai. Open 9.30am–5pm. Closed Sun.

Thai food is more than just vibrant flavours. It’s heritage, balance, wellness and a way of life. At its heart is Khao Hom Mali, the fragrant grain that nourishes both body and soul, bringing energy, comfort and culture to the table. For all Thais, that connection has always been deeply personal. And for anyone seeking true Thai taste, there’s one golden rule: it must be made with authentic Thai ingredients.

Whether you’re trying a recipe at home, finding an authentic Thai restaurant in your city or planning a trip to Thailand, every bowl of Khao Hom Mali is an invitation to start your own healthy journey.

Explore the wellness travel route here.