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La Perla is a rare gem in Venice: spit-and-sawdust, local, family-run, unreconstructed, with great – mainly fishy – dishes at sub-Venetian prices and an atmosphere that makes anyone who wanders this far into the heart of Murano feel like they’ve stumbled across a roomful of old friends. The traditional Venetian fare – both seafood and meat – is well prepared, served in generous helpings and very fresh.