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A welcome break from Venice-as-usual for both the palate and the wallet. This fast-expanding ethnic joint, which today counts a takeaway and restaurant in Santa Margherita and a second sit-down branch in Cannaregio, offers up a choice of dishes from the Middle East and Central Asia (falafel, rice recipes from Syria and Iran, spicy vegetable and meat sides) that channel the culinary heritage of its genial founders and staff.