Local chef Aaron Silverman’s two-story Barrack’s Row joint is worth every little bit of the buzz it’s received. Rose’s doesn’t take reservations and a line forms at 4pm on weekends for a 5:30 seating; but don’t let this be too offputting. Because dining here really is, as the neon sign hung downstairs near the kitchen says, “awesome.” The place oozes hipness and the camaraderie on the floor is palpable. Rose’s menu is Southern meets Jewish meets Japanese meets French meets Thai meets your grandmother’s home cooking, and changes often.
If you manage to get inside, immediately order the cocktail made with apple cider and brisket fat-washed moonshine (yes, you read that correctly), which is made right there in the basement (where else?). The drink is an instant soul-soother. Next, wrap your hands around a bowl of Silverman’s pork and lychee salad. The sheer number of textures—a cloud of whipped coconut cream, crunchy peanuts, velvety lychee fruit, crispy pork—will taunt your every last tastebud. The Southern-style fried chicken drizzled with honey and doused with sesame seeds is crisp, moist, delicious, and our new best friend. If you’re with a large group, don’t miss the family-style smoked brisket dinner. Just one forkful of this warm, tender dish—served with a cheeky wink on a literal silver platter, no less—will make you a believer. If you’re not with a larger group, fret not. Nicely ask your server to bring the dish as a sandwich. A sign that reads “Fuck Perfect” hangs in this restaurant but don’t let it fool you, as it's quite clear Silverman is a perfectionist.