Unconventional Diner

Chef David Deshaies, perhaps most closely identified with the 40-layer lasagna at L’Ardente and Japanese food hall Love Makoto, has quietly been serving some of the city’s most flavorful casual food at this unconventional restaurant that’s not really a diner.

The vibe: Brunch is served most of the day, every day, but that’s just the start of the fun. Depending on the occasion, guests may be treated to entertainment from drag queens, but the relaxed atmosphere, easy service, and quirky menu make any meal here a hoot.

The food: Always dreamed of getting garlic naan with Cajun shrimp and grits or with a “dirty” Caesar that features a jammy egg, tomato, aged Gouda, and midnight-black squid ink crumble? This must be the place. Those items are available all day, but dinner is perhaps the most exciting time to visit. We love the chicken parm “Florentine,” which oozes fontina cheese, just as much as the Southeast-Asia-facing pot roast rendang, braised beef flavored with star anise, but served with creamy mashed potatoes. 

The drink: Amplify your tasty eats (and whimsical desserts) with a frozen drink. The PSL Mudslide features vodka, cold brew coffee, bourbon cream and a mound of pumpkin-spiced whipped cream. Even the strawberry margarita goes beyond berries and tequila, with colorful dragonfruit, orange liqueur, and citrus juice for a tropical twist. 

Time Out tip: Want breakfast for dinner? While the brunch menu ends at 3:45pm, a few dishes, including the sweet potato shakshuka and buttermilk pancakes with blueberry-lavender sauce, remain into the night.