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Onions are much in evidence in the hushed, golden dining room of Vidalia, which itself is named after the Southern sweet variety. You’ll find them in a spread for the complimentary bread, in a rich hot soup and in the discreet artwork adorning the walls. But the restaurant’s raison d’être is neither single-ingredient schtick nor even strictly Southern cooking; it proudly proclaims its cuisine to be "American regional". There are many dishes in which pork is the star player, and grits and oysters are likely suspects on winter menus.