The lively residential neighbourhood around piazza Alessandria, just outside Porta Pia, is on the up and up: there's the MACRO art gallery, due for completion sometime in 2008, and a sprinkling of new places to eat and drink. One of the best is this nouveau-rustic wine-oriented osteria, all brick vaulted ceiling and bottle-lined walls, which offers creative trattoria cooking at competitive prices. Kick off with smoked tuna and swordfish with misticanza salad before moving on to mezzemaniche (short rigatoni) with cuttlefish and broccoli, or anglerfish fillet with artichokes and pachino tomatoes. Desserts are mostly playing-it-safe standards like crema catalana. Vegetarians will find a better than average selection here, and the worthwhile wine list includes several by-the-glass options.