The three Troiani brothers run a high-class act in this temple of foodie excellence just north of piazza Navona, and seem entirely unfazed by the proximity of new neighbour Gualtiero Marchesi, whose Hostaria dell'Orso (not listed in this edition of the guide) has failed to live up to its promise. Il Convivio, on the other hand, maintains a steady course of reliable haute cuisine in elegant surroundings - though only one of the three dining rooms (the one with the pastel chiaroscuro murals) could be described as warm and inviting. The brothers are from the Marches, and although the creations of chef Angelo are ultra-gourmet, the regional stamp is still discernible in dishes such as a first-course risotto con funghi porcini e quaglia scaloppata (porcini mushrooms and quail scallops). Secondi - where fresh vegetables, meat, game and seafood take equal billing - are also fine (we like the lacquered quail on a skewer with bitter chestnut honey, ginger, red-wine sauce and roast mushrooms), and the desserts are spectacular (don't miss the zabaione ice-cream with praline almonds and balsamic vinegar). The wine list is extensive and has a few affordable bottles, plus a range of non-Italian labels. For Convivio beginners, there is a six-dish taster menu (€97).