The reputation of this restaurant is stuck in the same 1960s time warp as the decor. But Alberto Ciarla is still one of Rome's best fish restaurants - and a meal here is not prohibitively expensive, especially if you opt for one of the taster menus (from €50 up). A trademark dish like spigola con le erbe (sea bass with herbs) strikes the right balance between art and nature, while a primo of pasta e fagioli ai frutti di mare (pasta and beans with seafood) is strong, decisive and very Roman. The menu is a triumph of dolce vita typography, the overriding mood one of charmingly courteous camp. As this guide went to press, Alberto Ciarla was in the midst of opening a winebar next door (12.30-2.30pm, 7.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat).