Nestling among the trendy bars and clubs opposite Testaccio's former slaughterhouse (Il Mattatoio), the Mariani family's historic restaurant is Rome's leading temple of authentic cucina romana. Imagine a pie shop rising to become one of London's leading restaurants, and the odd mix of humble decor, elegant service, hearty food and one of the most extensive wine cellars in Rome falls into place. Vegetarians should give this place a wide berth:specialities include trippa and coda alla vaccinara. Pasta dishes like the traditional bucatini all'amatriciana are delicious. Desserts feature a delicious stracciatella cake with ricotta, almonds and chocolate chips. Unusually for Rome, there's an impressive cheese board.