From the outside, this San Lorenzo eaterie looks like one of those spit-and-sawdust places that Romans refer to as un buco - a hole in the wall. There's no name outside, just a sign saying 'Cucina'. Inside, hordes of hungry students from the nearby university occupy the old wooden tables. Alongside Roman offal specialities like tripe and pajata are lighter and more creative dishes such as straccetti ai carciofi (strips of veal with artichokes). The same goes for pasta: as well as reliable traditional recipes (spaghettialla carbonara, all'amatriciana or alla gricia), you can also order home-made ravioloni filled with fresh cheese, ricotta and walnuts. A surprisingly extensive wine list, strong on big reds, confirms that Marcello - now run by Marcello's son, Isidoro - is a lot more than a buco.