This born-again family restaurant under the towering walls of the Quirinal palace is one of the few really reliable addresses in the menu turistico dominated Trevi Fountain area. When weather permits, you can dine outside, plant-screened from the tourist crocodiles and their umbrella-waving guides; inside, the decor is cool (though a tad bare) and restful antique-modern. The creative Italian menu is strong on fish, but there are plenty of meat dishes as well, including an excellent, ultra-Roman coda alla vaccinara. Primi take in soups, pasta and rice dishes, including a fine risotto of verza (cabbage) and red prawns; one of the highlights of the secondi is the coda di rospo (anglerfish) on a bed of lentils. Desserts are delicious, and the wine list one of the best in Rome in this price range. There is also a good selection of wines by the glass and, in the evening, an intelligent range of taster menus, from €50 up.